Saturday 13th May – Hoodoo Sunset

I woke early, something I’ve been doing a lot lately thanks to the bright morning sun and lack of someone to snuggle with, so decided to make the most of it. No one else was up yet so I did a bit of packing up, had myself some cereal then wandered over to the visitor’s centre to make the most of their Wifi. I got a few blogs in then returned to camp to find everyone else emerged and well into the breakfast routine. When it came to packing up, Oliver and I took a tour around the campsite singing and bouncing to keep him entertained and happy while D&K packed up camp. I was just about running out of songs when everyone was ready to go. We all filed out of camp, a red VW, the blue and silver Arc and my Astro. Such an unlikely bunch.

We drove east out of the park on our way to Bryce Canyon, stopping past the tunnel to do a short hike. We had to park a while away from the tunnel thanks to the number of cars already lining the road, but it wasn’t too far to walk back. Kids went in the backpacks, we sunscreened up, then marched one-by-one (just like the ants) to the trail. The Canyon Overlook trail was only 0.5 miles, but it followed rock and was narrow in places, enough to make it interesting. We could see down into a canyon that was being navigated by a group of canyoners, dressed just like Derek and I had been a couple of days ago. It didn’t quite have the isolation factor that we had, but it looked just as narrow as what we’d explored.

We curled under the rocks and walked over them until we reached the lookout which gave us a view into the valley that we’d partly climbed out of. The wind was fierce and we held on to our hats but it still wasn’t cold! I was happy to still be rocking my summer dress.

We sat in the shade of a single tree and had some lunch, though I only had a Clif bar to snack on since I hadn’t packed anything. I, like the chipmunks all around us, had food envy as the others ate. Emma did a good job of shooing the chipmunks away so they didn’t get our food, always attentive at where they might be coming from. We watched the tourists come and go, some of them playing chase the hat as they were at the top.

Before we left, we got a group photo in front of the valley. It was improbable that we were all together and completely unpredictable when we would all be together again, so it was worth a photo.

We climbed back down the way we came, me keeping Kylie and Oliver company as the others went ahead a bit. We didn’t waste any time when we all got back to the cars, it was time to drive to our next camp. I made myself a quick wrap for lunch which I devoured on the drive out.

We all split up on the way to Bryce, all stopping at different places for petrol and a bit of grocery shopping. Unfortunately there wasn’t much in the way of a decent-sized supermarket so we were all getting a bit strung out. I’d run out of beer two days ago! I stopped in at the rest area just outside the park for old times’ sake. Mikey and I had camped here late one night, desperate for a camp after getting stuck in the snow. It had ben our coldest night in the van on that trip at -21*C. I was grateful it wasn’t that now!

Tom and Cat came up behind me just as I was driving into Bryce Canyon National Park and they beat me through the entrance station so I followed them into Sunset Campground where Derek and Kylie had already parked. We’d all arrived within ten minutes of each other. Though we were only allowed two cars at the site, when the ranger came round, they explained that they didn’t mind if we had three so we all boxed in. It was definitely not summer dress weather any more. Within minutes of getting out the car, I was in trackies, downie and beanie. Contrast much?

As the others were setting up camp, I needed something to do since my camp requires so little setting up. It was time to fix my mountain bike rim. Derek, the bike expert, had brought along a set of nipples and the right tools to tighten my spokes, for which I was super grateful. I set myself up on my Thai mat and with Tom, Derek and Emma, set about getting the broken nipples off my spokes. I’d managed to bust two on my ride in Moab that needed fixing. As I tried to loosen the two nipples with Derek’s tool and a pair of vice grips, I found they were pretty much welded on, so we thought I’d have better luck crushing the soft alloy nipples instead. This was exactly the case. I crushed and split the nipples so that they crumbled off the spokes. I used a bit of wire to get the new nipples onto the spokes and started turning. I put the rim back on the bike frame and continued tightening until the bend in the rim lessened. What a marvellous process, where you can see immediate results from such a simple action! After a while of fiddling around and looking at the rim spin against my finger, the rim was straight to within about a millimetre and Derek confirmed that that should just about do the trick. Tube back in and tyre back on the rim, I took it for a test ride. I had to get out onto tarmac to test it properly and I found that I could still feel the bounce in the wheel, but decided that close enough was good enough. Next bike shop I see, I will buy a couple of spare spokes and a tool like Derek’s so I’m prepared for the next snap. My poor bike is ready for retirement, especially after so long being stored on a roof out in the weather.

Tom and Cat went for a walk while the rest of us hung out at camp, me sitting in my comfy chair in a spot of sun behind camp to do some blogging. It was around this time that Emma decided she didn’t like me any more, not wanting to play with me and shunning away whenever I spoke to her. Kylie and I theorised that it was probably because I’d been spending more time with Oliver than she liked. After dinner, the sun was still well up so we all opted for a walk out to Sunset point at the rim of the canyon. Tomcat stayed behind to do dishes and go later so they could actually catch the sunset while the rest of us went off.

It was only a short way to the rim of the canyon and it was spectacular. The hoodoos were dense in this part of the canyon and a vibrant orange thanks to the fading light. I’d last seen this canyon over a year ago when it was covered in snow and it was still magical. We walked out to Sunset point where we got a great view of people with their tripods trying to get the best shot of the canyon. I don’t understand the appeal of playing with settings until you get it right but I felt like the minority. We walked out along the rim for a bit before Emma decided she’d like to go back to camp.

I stayed out on the rim after the others went back. I’d come armed with my laptop to kill time before the sunset and I set myself up on an empty bench between Sunrise and Sunset points. I had the place mostly to myself except for a few parties that stopped by to take some photos. It has to have been one of the best offices I’ve had on my trip. I imagined that I was writing some great novel, seeking inspiration from the city of rocks below me.

When it came sunset time, I walked over to Sunrise point as the sky started to turn purple and orange. There were fewer photographers at this point, but at least they were bucking the trend. The sunset finished its display as I walked back along the rim to have camp. I passed many under dressed people who were rushing back to their warm rooms in the lodge.

Tom and Cat got back to camp just after me, they’d enjoyed the sunset view as well, only they’d ridden their bikes to get there. The family went to bed and I retreated to the van around the same time, feeling knackered for no particular reason. I chilled out in the van a while before going to bed properly. It was below freezing according to Derek’s weather forecast, so I snuggled up under my warm doona.