I actually had to take my doona off last night it was so warm inside the van. It did cool down overnight, but it is the warmest night I’ve had in recent memory. I used the Walmart’s bathroom then actually did some shopping before breakfast. I needed more undies so I don’t have to do laundry so often and my sunnies are scratched to shithouse so I invested $2.50 in a new pair. Thank goodness for Walmart!

Oats for breakfast, I had no shame cooking out the back of my van in the carpark. I was on the road just before 9am I think, headed for Palo Duro Canyon. A place I hadn’t heard of before yesterday where the Amarillo visitor’s center lady told me it is the second largest canyon in the world (obviously second to the Grand) and the biggest one you can drive into. Well! She convinced me it was worth a visit, especially once I found out you can mountain bike there. I paid $5 entry since it’s a state park and found that half the park was closed for a hunt. Hmm. Didn’t really matter since the trails I wanted to do were open. I was apprehensive about getting back on my bike, it had been so long and I was sure my fitness would be nowhere after my body got knocked around so badly while in Europe. But can’t let that stop me! After finding my trailhead and watching a deer harass a couple having their lunch at a picnic table, I got dressed for the 5-10*C weather, got my bike off the roof, gave it some attention and rode away.

The canyon reminded me a lot of Sedona with its red dust and layered rock formations, but being a canyon, it was like the inverse of the Sedona towers. The riding was easy but fun. “GSL” was the gem trail that manage to be interesting even though it didn’t have much elevation trail. I stopped heaps to admire the scenery around me.

I detoured onto “Little Fox Loop” that was a small two-miler that wasn’t too special, but had some cool creek crossings (all were dry). Once I got off “GSL” and onto the “Lighthouse” trail, the path widened to accommodate the horses that trudge through, but there were a few fun rocky sections. At the base of the lighthouse (a towering rock formation), there were signs saying the trail had ended. I rode past them and got about fifty meters before the trail got too steep. I stashed the bike and walked up to the rocks.

I was startled by a guy having lunch on a bench near me, then waved once I realised it wasn’t a snake in the bushes. I wandered all around the lighthouse and the other tall formation next to it. The views into the canyon were spectacular. I managed to get on top of the formation next to the lighthouse and I sat at the edge with my legs dangling over and admired the depth and length of the canyon in front of me. Absolutely stunning, I was grateful to be out in the wilderness again, doing what I love.

I watched to the other guy a bit before I head off, found my bike in the bushes and rode past a party on their horses away from the lighthouse. I passed a few hikers and thought how boring it would be to hike these trails. Riding is the only way! At the end of the lighthouse trail, I found a trail to lead me back to my car, alongside the road. This was a pretty standard trail for hikers and horses. Three-quarters through the 1-miler, I heard a familiar pop sound, then loose traction on my rear wheel, then the feel of rim touching the ground. A flat! Another hole from the cut sidewall. I really need to get new tyres. I was happy to be near the end, I walked it back to the car.

After replacing the tube once and discovering my patched replacement was leaking, I tried a second tube with more luck and re-instated the bike to the roof. I couldn’t believe the warmth in the air, I was excited to be able to have a shower without freezing my tits off. I drove around to a more secluded picnic area and parked so I didn’t have to bother putting my “privacy screen” up. Even though it was nearly 15*C and I could have probably stomached a cold shower, I warmed some water. Feeling better afterwards, I had lunch, sitting in the living room while I studied the map and planned my next move.

I must admit at this point I felt a bit lost. Why was I going to Florida again? It is a very long way and if I keep having days like this then maybe it’s not necessary? And Texas was proving to be a lot of fun, so maybe I should explore it more? But it’s so damn big! In the end, I decided to stick to the semi-original plan of following Route 66 through Oklahoma. I packed up the van and drove out of the canyon and back up to Amarillo, then cut east towards the state line, following as much of Route 66 as possible.

In some places, the old route is right next to the main highway and the small towns it passes through seem to be the places where old cars go to die. In one small district, there were at least five auto-repair shops and it was impossible to tell if they were still open for business. There were all sorts of cars and car bits sprawled everywhere, seemingly abandoned, but maybe not? I stopped in at the “Devil’s Rope” free museum, an establishment dedicated to the history of barbed wire, only to find it was closed for the winter. I carried on, looking in on all the small towns and farms the lie alongside this historic road that transported American dreamers to the west coast in the 20s and 30s.

I checked freecampsites.net and found a sweet spot just inside the Oklahoma border. I drove in just before sunset and was very happy with my digs. Another lake view and a couple of geese for company. Mr. White Goose, was friendly to begin with, but his honking soon became incessant when he realised I was making dinner. After a day of such beautiful warmth, it all faded away with a fierce cold wind so I abandoned dinner outside and moved into the van to heat up my left overs. No matter what you hear it was because of the cold, not because I feared Mr. White would bite my shins.

Needless to say, I spent the rest of the night in my van, feeling a little foolish for thinking the weather had changed for good. At least I feel less lost now, I need to get to Florida!