Day One
I was meant to leave on the Monday. It was October 16, 2023. Nearly seven years to the day since I last ventured out in a van solo, I was at it again. The week before, I found out I’d be having more tooth surgery so had to wait around until Monday to get a CT scan sent off to a Gooding family member in Rhode Island for a second opinion. That meant I could be there for Deb when she got into a car crash that morning, receive confirmation that I would be campground hosting in Moab for the next month and that I received my last package at McDonald Drive – security bolts to stop thieves from taking my Starlink.
It was a tearful goodbye at the Gooding household. A place where I’d left my mark (dog fence, gate, plumbing) and been made to feel very much at home.
Deb, not to be told no, pushed a wad of cash into my hand before I got Cleo situated in her spot and turned Berta’s engine over. She sounded ready. After all we’d been through together, here we were, at our end goal. Life living and working on the road.
I waved goodbye to my in-laws and Cleo and I started off on our new life. As soon as I turned onto McDonald Drive, a kitchen draw came sliding open. Whoops – forgot to latch it.
We didn’t get very far. I’d left around 4:30pm and didn’t want to find my first camp in the dark. I was heading north and as I faced the bottom of fuel pump hill, I smiled. All those years ago in the Astro with sweat running down my chest and the fuel pump cutting out up this very hill. Berta swept up it easily.
We pulled off into Agua Fria National Monument just after peaking and found ourselves a nice little spot near a trailhead. Even had bathrooms! The service wasn’t all that good so I simply turned on Starlink which enabled me to talk to Deb and then Dad. They were happy to hear from me and I them.
Once it was dark I heated up some Costco noodles (thanks Deb) for dinner and it was Mum’s turn for an update. We got off the phone when it got cold enough for me to make a fire in the provided fire ring with some brush from nearby. That was Cleo’s cue to settle in for the night while I sat by the flames blogging. A decent first night I’d say!
Sunrise at Sunset
I had a 7:30am meeting so that meant Cleo and I had to hit the trail early. We did so and enjoyed a nice walk down a wash. It and the riverbed we got to looked like it hadn’t seen water in a while.
I worked inside the van, rather uncomfortably in the heat with a janky table setup, but I made it through to my 1pm meeting ok. Cleo was having a great old time just keeping watch and wandering around camp.nI figured out I need to park facing south to make best use of the van’s shade in the morning. After my meeting, I took a few calls then packed up. We were going north to Sedona.
We stopped in at Cottonwood for groceries and right as I was done putting them away, I got a call from Dr. Michael Gooding about my teeth. He made it very clear that he and his surgeon want to be the ones to do the work. Despite never meeting me, he wanted to do all he could for family and would only feel comfortable if I got the best treatment. That made me feel quite special. Guess that means I’m making a trip to Rhode Island next year.
I was buoyed being on the outskirts of Sedona. I just never get sick of seeing those red rocks. What used to be a camper’s paradise is now limited to eight designated sites south of town. I’d never frequented these and with some on each side of the road, I pondered left or right. Right. There were only two camps on this side so less likely for people to go this way?
I drove past the Sunrise camp and it looked pretty occupied so carried on down to Angel Valley. Well, it was a zoo. I turned back and pulled into Sunrise right at sunset and just as a couple were leaving, towing a toy hauler behind their truck. I drove straight into their newly unoccupied site and felt very chuffed with myself. Within the next ten minutes, three more potential campers drove around the site looking for their home.
I parked facing south then Cleo and I took a walk to the top of the hill to catch the sun dip below the horizon.
Outdoor Office
I was up early and on our walk we were surprised with hot air balloons! We hadn’t got very far down the road when we came across a man standing by his truck. Dutch was a spotter for the hot air ballooning company. He’d been in my situation, just camping out in the forest when he’d seen the balloons and was so mesmerized that he just had to be a part of it. He settled in Sedona and has been working the balloons ever since. He was a bit of a salesman telling me that the $350 price tag was well worth the experience, but you could tell he just wanted to share the magic. They fly every day at sunrise, except Christmas Day. I suppose I shouldn’t have been surprised to see them then!
Back at camp, I realized I’d parked facing east. Idiot. Once I got that sorted, I set up my outdoor office.
At around lunch time, I set up the awning to extend my shade time and tied my ropes so that it would be an easy set-up each time. Berta and I are still getting to know each other.
The flies were a bit of a bother for Cleo but she stayed close and snoozed in the shade as I typed and Zoomed away.
We tried a walk in the afternoon but it really was too hot for Cleo. She was lying down in the shade after half an hour. She’d also become a lady of leisure the last few months so I realized I’m going to have to be gentle with her. Gun shots in the distance on our way back didn’t help her enthusiasm.
Back at camp, after the sun went down, the night was beautifully cool and I had a nice long chat with Tomoko sitting tilted back in my chair and watching the stars.
Battery Dead Already
I was up at 5:30am to get my work in so we could hit the road at lunch time. I had an 8am meeting so I was nervous about my battery level. Typical, it died right around 7:30am. My charge had steadily been going down since I left which wasn’t an encouraging sign. I didn’t want to have to drive every day and I sure thought the solar would give me enough. I thought long and hard about it on my morning walk.
Hot air balloons again today and this time they were much closer and the wind (though it couldn’t be felt) was pushing them more westward.
Back at camp, I ran the engine for five minutes to verify that the alternator charging system was working and yes, it is. By 8am, I had enough sun to run Starling and do my work day. Once I was finished, I was happy that my driving would charge the battery for the rest of the day.
Continuing north, it was hard to leave Sedona without riding a trail but it was just too hot and I was on a mission. The drive out was beautiful with some pretty fall colors in the canyon. I was driving like a Granny in the big blue, taking the roundabouts at a crawl feeling no shame.
We stopped in at Flagstaff’s Home Depot for some supplies and I wasted way too much time looking for a security bolt tool that didn’t exist. On the way out, I talked to Deb and was sad to hear that her dog Lily apparently has Usher’s disease. And we’d thought this whole time she just had old lady syndrome!
As we approached Tuba City, Cleo was in need of a break so we stopped at a pull-out and as we walked down a sandy road, I thought this could be camp, but we were still three hours away from Moab and it was a little too trashy.
I enjoyed the sunset drive but as soon as it got dark, it felt wrong to be driving. Monument Valley was coming up and though I’ve driven through it many times, I couldn’t bring myself to do it at night. We parked at a truck stop behind a Burger King and it was bloody freezing!
Speaking of freezing, my thinking time made me realize that the freezer was running full-time. Everything inside was frozen but the freezer thought it was only at 3*C so it kept running to get colder. The constant draw could be the culprit for the low charge. I swapped the freezer and fridge around and hoped that would improve things. Cleo was exhausted so straight to bed for her.
Moab
I got up early to do some work in the dark but the battery is still not very happy. Hmmmm. Even after all that driving! More thinking required.
With the sun rising, we set off. Monument Valley at dawn would be a new experience! The beautiful silhouettes began to take on color as we drove. I was glad we hadn’t driven through darkness. This was a special time. I even stopped for a commemorative Berta photo in the picturesque landscape.
Once into Utah, the landscape becomes more red than brown with less cactus, more bush and it is desolate!
That stopped in Moab. Downtown was a bloody zoo! Tourists everywhere with ATVs galore and bikes moving every which way. My kinda town.
I scoped out the BLM field office, then elected to leave camp as a surprise and post up at Lions Head park for some work. After a quick walk to see the Colorado River, Cleo happily sat on the floor of the van looking out as I worked.
At 2pm, we went over to the field office for my volunteer orientation. I’d applied for this camphost position a few weeks ago through volunteer.gov, had a successful interview and my friends and family wrote me some beautiful recommendations. That meant I got the gig!
The volunteer coordinator, Jeremy, was a lovely animated guy with a beard tied below his chin with a hair tie and red-rimmed glasses covering most of his face. We sat and he walked me through “the binder” which would be my manual during my duties. Two hours later, having had a quick tour of the office, I left, armed with a vest, t-shirts, a hat and a very official name badge. My Dad would be proud, but also disappointed that I hadn’t been issued a whistle.
Williams Bottom campground would be my home for the next month and the drive up to it couldn’t have been better. In typical Sarah-fashion I hadn’t done much research beyond seeing where camp was on a map so when I drove past Wall Street, slowing for the dozens of climbers belaying from the roadside, I was properly stoked.
Knowing how busy it was, I felt pretty privileged to have a spot with my name on it when I pulled into the campground. It is a beautiful campground and my site was a gorgeous little shady nook. I took my time getting level since I knew this would be home for a good while.
When I opened my door, the first thing I heard was “I love your van”, and the second, “I love your dog”. Not a bad start! I wandered over to the people at campsite #1 and made conversation and introduced them to Cleo.
I had a few more hours of work to put in and I realized that Stalink couldn’t see the sky through the trees and the canyon wall that I was parked near. Shoot. Not only do I have to get Berta level and point her south in the heat, I’ve gotta make sure Starlink isn’t obstructed! I felt a bit silly moving the van around, feeling as if I was making a right idiot of myself, but I got it sorted. It worked for a couple of hours anyway, after that it kept dropping out so I gave up. Later in the night, I was surprised it was good enough to get me through Austin GP qualifying.
I’m a Camp Host?
Saturday, it was my first free day! I looked at the badge, the hat and the vest and felt a bit silly trying to decide how much uniform I wanted to put on. I felt as if I’d be making a fool of myself waltzing the campsite as if I was someone important. I settled on the badge and the hat and Cleo and I did our first rounds.
Most people were keen for a chat and by the time I got talking to Tina and Justin’s family, I was feeling better. Then there was Andy the mountain biker and John the canyoning tour guide. I would see John another three times that day in different places!
With that out of the way, I did a bit more camp set-up then got out for a hike with Cleo. It was on the hot side and Cleo definitely needs to work on her fitness after months of being a couch potato.
It was a busy Saturday. There were volunteers posted up with a marquee at the Poison Spider trailhead and I gave them some business asking where the singletrack was. Thery weren’t confident Cleo would be able to do the scramble so we head up the Jeep road.
We stopped to watch ATVs and Jeeps tackle a tough rocky section heading uphill but they all made it look easy. There must have been dozens of them heading up this trail. The trail went off the road and over some slick rock then into desert sand. We took a break under a tree for Cleo to cool down and again I felt a bit silly like I didn’t know what I was doing. But we had plenty of water and I doused her in it before we kept going. I had time to stop as much as she needed.
The gem of the hike was the arch at the end. While not a show-stopper, it was a nice feature to see and I did a bit of an explore up the climber’s route before we turned back.
We saw John and his tourists coming up as we were going down.
Cleo did pretty well with the scramble, though I had to pick her up and put her down on the slick rock. A guy kindly spotted me as he saw what was happening then we chatted for a while as Cleo caught her breath. He and his two friends all attended a university where you do one course at a time. I didn’t like that idea and told them so!
Back down at camp, Cleo stood guard at a rock and I was keen to sit down and watch some F1. Despite the success of last night, the reception was nowise bad I couldn’t get through five minutes of Sprint Qualifying.
Later that afternoon, with the campground empty of any onlookers, I tried in earnest to find the best position for Starlink. I got creative maneuvering around rocks trying every possible angle. This was going to be my home for a month, I had to make this work. Kevin called me midway through my shenanigans so he became a guinea pig as I tried to park up so our call wouldn’t drop out. Nothing I tried worked. When I put a dent in the side door by scraping a low post, I got pissed off and sat under the shady tree to read my book.
Feeling stupid and lonely, I didn’t want to feel sorry for myself, so once Wall Street was in shade, I went off to find some friends to climb with. I made sure Cleo was comfortable in the van, strapped on my pre-packed climbing backpack and walked off. Ain’t nothing going to stop me.
I walked the length of the busy wall, waiting to make eye contact with the right person, or see a route that seemed within my ability with a person or two hanging out. It took me nearly a half mile to find my crew. Lauren, Tracy and Sarah were a party of three girls from Colorado on what looked to be a fun route. I waited a little awkwardly nearby until the climber sat on the rope then introduced myself and asked if they wanted to put another rope up. They welcomed me and once Lauren was down from her route, Tracy gave me a catch on the one next door. I didn’t know the grade or it’s name but it didn’t matter, it was a mix of sport and trad and looked fun.
Not wanting to make a fool of myself, I was happy with the route and stoked with my gear placement to get up the second half. I then gave Lauren a catch on my route then ran up the one she’d lead. They were both super nice climbs and the belayers chatted the whole time so we got to know each other a little.
At the top of the left-hand route, I safetied in and hung out so I could help Sarah clean the right-hand route. What a cool experience, I got to sit on the wall as the sun went down and watch the path of headlights form on the other side of the river where Jeeps and ATVs were coming back from their day of petrol burning.
It was 7pm by the time we packed up and nearly dark. I chatted with my new friends back to their car then said thank you and goodbye. I walked away feeling pretty good about things. I don’t need a husband for a climbing partner when I can just open my mouth and say hi!
I had a shower by the open passenger door, cooked myself some dinner and sat through some buffering to watch Sprint Qualifying. I had one eye on my battery which was going down steadily.
Mass Exodus
During this morning’s rounds, everyone was on their way out, including Tina and Justin. They took my number in case they decided to come back in a few weeks. I’d be able to report on conditions and business.
After a good night’s sleep, I’d figured out that I had to ditch my campsite. If I couldn’t stream an hour of video without buffering, I’d never be able to work properly. I perused each site and decided that Site #11 was my best bet. It would be in the full sun without any obstruction and with cold weather coming up, I figured the van temperature would be ideal.
One family who’d arrived late on Saturday to one of the worst sites was also eyeing up #11 but when I suggested they take my site, they were keen for it because it meant they could walk their stuff over instead of completely packing up and moving.
As I moved into my new site, I had the Starlink app open on my phone so I could see how connectivity was real-time as I got positioned and level. Once parked, I tested it out by watching the F1 pre-race show. No buffering. Nailed it!
Just before midday, it wasn’t too hot in the van so I got the roadie out and rode over to the Goldbar campground. It was an hour round trip and wow am I glad I wasn’t camped there. It was completely exposed with only dirt on the ground and not a tree in sight. Shrubbery was the best it got and it was leafless. I toured the bathrooms and the dumpster and goggled at the number of cars and people across the road at the Corona Arch trailhead. Yikes.
Back at my camp, I set up a shade structure using my poles and two trees and posted up underneath it to watch the Sprint with my lunch. I felt a bit weird being in Moab and not doing stuff, but I would be here for a while and it was just too hot to do much with Cleo or leave her in the car. I was happy to have F1 to keep me occupied.
With the campground deserted, I felt comfortable getting my power tools out to tackle the oven edge piece and mount for my work table. I figured my first priority should be to get myself a comfortable workspace. I didn’t want to be working outside all the time.
I was happy with my work and my reward was a sunset hike with Cleo. It was the short version of what we’d done yesterday but with the rocks a brighter orange at this time of day. Coming back to our new camp, I was quite happy with the little place we’d made home.
Moab Office
I woke up to the battery at 40% and blow drying my hair killed it. I had to turn off the battery and solar to reset the controller and get power back. Bloody hell! I didn’t like how much I was thinking about this!
I took Cleo for an early walk around camp then settled in to work. I had a very comfortable day using a piece of wood as my table with a bolt-head sticking out the middle of it (baby steps). I finished up around 2pm and toyed with the idea of a MTB ride, but still didn’t feel right about leaving Cleo in the car in the middle of the day.
I read my book under my shade instead, then chatted a while with the new guy Tim next door who was toying with his MTB. He’d ridden the Whole Enchilada today and planned to shuttle Mag 7 tomorrow. He reported snow at the top of Whole Enchilada so I thought I need to get a wriggle on and ride it before it’s too late!
Being so close to the Colorado River, I had to go for a swim so Cleo and I walked towards Wall Street to find an access point. We found one a half mile from camp and while Cleo wasn’t too keen for a dunk, I was. I stripped down to my undies and walked into the freezing cold water until I was floating. Woo it was cold! If I’d waded out another meter I’d have been fighting my way back the current is so fast so I was happy with a quick dunk.
I tried to give Cleo a bit of a wash, but it only resulted in muddy paws so I gave that away.
Camp was in the shade by the time we got back so I left Cleo and took the roadie along and beyond Wall Street to check in at Jaycee campground. A walk-in campground for climbing bums, it was quiet there, had enough toilet paper and the bins weren’t overflowing. I was getting the impression this camphosting thing was going to be very straightforward.
Back home, I sat out reading my book and watching the sun fade on the canyon walls as the temperature steadily dropped.
Six Stitches
With ice at the top of Whole Enchilada, I needed to get some riding in. I decided the best time to get out was the early morning so I could be back before Cleo got too hot. It was only going to be 23*C today so the 6am morning was crisp!
I got Scottie out and inspected it, then put my gear on and decided to wait a little while to give the sun more time to heat the earth. Around 7am I walked to the bathroom and saw Tim at his camp. He asked if I was riding and I said yes. His shuttle was picking him up at Jaycee campground and he suggested I ride with him. The shuttle was already lined up and within riding distance? I was in.
I went back to camp, texted my boss and told her I may not make the 1pm meeting, then did an hour of solid work. Time to leave and it was still cold in the van so I put a heat pack under Cleo’s blanket to keep her warm for the next hour or so. I just hoped it wouldn’t be too warm by the time I got back.
I rode over to Jaycee and there was no one there. Not a good sign! When someone did show up with a bike on the roof, I chatted with him. He’d crashed 100 yards into the Whole Enchilada yesterday so was being a shuttle driver for his friend and just chilling for the day. Tim showed up soon after and we all shot the breeze hoping the shuttle would show up. Tim had said it would only run if they got enough takers.
When the van pulled into the carpark, we were stoked. Pierce and Cassidy were the only others heading up and they were already in the van with their bikes on the back. The driver happily took my $40 and let me walk-on. He didn’t seem to mind what I paid and I certainly didn’t!
Tim and I got to know each other on the drive up. A Kiwi living full-time in BC, Canada, he was juggling work and travel too, borrowing a mate’s Starlink and interviewing people for his adventure/training company that took professionals into the wilderness to build their leadership skills. It sounded like a fascinating job and he made a lot of friends through it. I told him about my new endeavor and that I was relearning how to venture on my own.
At the trailhead, we were happy for our layers and both happy to have a riding buddy. After a fist bump, we were off. We rode at a similar pace enjoying the twisting single track turns that spat us out onto slick rock to follow painted markers.
Mag 7 is so named because of the seven trail segments you tackle and the views just get better and better the further you go. We stopped a few times on the first segment to de-layer and by the third, we were down to our shirts.
The fifth segment was a tough climb up Jeep road that had been stained black beyond repair by the rubber of chunky tires. I was gasping for breath and feeling the burn in my legs as we pedaled higher and higher. Shit it was hard.
At the top, we met a few other riders and sat to enjoy the view. We could see the main road down below and the very Northern tip of town.
We swapped stories with the others a bit then were off again. Now the technical stuff began. There was a test feature at the top of Goodbar that if you couldn’t ride, suggested you should take the firewood down and not the last two segments. We both cruised over it so I was feeling good.
Goldbar was a dream trail. With some technical sections that rewarded speed, then some beautiful rocky corners and slick rock rolling. We were both yelling out and enjoying ourselves.
I had a moment of indecision that meant I pushed my bike straight into a steep rock instead of pitching my bike up to climb it and it momentarily pushed the tyre off my front rim losing a bunch of air. I rode on for a bit but no, I needed more air. I managed to twist off my valve cap with my pump losing the whole lot. Bugger. Tim to the rescue, he had a fancy 1-Up pump and brought me back to life without needing a tube. Good to know the CO canister I’d been carrying around for years was a dud.
It wasn’t long after we got going again that I ran out of talent. I pitched my bike down over a steep rock and it sent me over the bars. I remember seeing the ground coming straight at my face and knowing it was going to hurt. Hurt it did. I hit my head, my elbows and once I was sprawled out on the ground, I realized my left knee was hurting too.
Tim had been just ahead of me so he rushed back, but I managed to say that I was ok so he didn’t rush too madly. We both took one look at my knee and knew it would need stitches. Shit. Thankfully the head hit hadn’t been too bad and while it popped my helmet visor off and given my forehead a graze, that was the extent of the damage.
I’m thankful it wasn’t worse. My knee wound was clean, the bike was ok and my elbows would live. Looking at Tim’s knee pads though, I felt a little silly. We both agreed it wasn’t nearly the hardest thing we’d ridden over either. I just stuffed up.
Just as we were about to wrap my neckerchief around my bleeding knee, one of the guys from the veiwpoint rode by and stopped to offer us a bandage. What a life saver. He had a patch of gauze and tape to keep everything together and offered me his fist as encouragement because he could see I was pissed off with myself. “You’re badass for being up here, and now you’re going to have a badass scar to show for it!” Thanks mate.
Once I was wrapped up I said to Tim, “We gotta get going before this starts hurting!” Off we went. My confidence was obviously ruined so I walked a lot of sections and Tim didn’t mind stopping and waiting for me. While I was bummed, it was a pleasure to watch him. He was tackling everything and enjoying every minute. I was grateful to have had him with me.
Portal, the flagship trail of Mag 7, was just stunning. The views down into the canyon were breathtaking and I had to laugh at the signs that told you death was imminent if you didn’t get off your bike and walk the next section. Didn’t have to tell me twice. There was only a couple of sections like that, but the rest was ridable (on a normal day) which Tim proved.
I’d had Cleo in the back of my mind at the top of the trail and she was at the front of it as we descended down to Jaycee campground. I desperately hoped she was ok and worried that my crash had delayed me getting her out of the van.
Tim was heading to a different part of Moab so we said our goodbyes and swapped information in the carpark then I raced back to the van. I had all sorts of thoughts that I’d find Cleo lying on her back with her tongue out, or scratching incessantly to get out. I found nothing of the sort. She was fast asleep on the front seats and cool to the touch. I was happy to see her.
I walked her around camp, stowed the bike, then readied the van for a drive. We went straight to Moab regional hospital and I fronted up at the Urgent Care desk. They had a couple-hour wait there so someone walked me over to the ER where I was seen straight away. I was smiling and chatty, knowing that this was an injury they saw every day of the week.
I met and was treated by three different people and they were all friendly with interesting stories. They were impressed with cleanliness of my wound but still doused it in an ocean of solution before numbing me up for stitches. I felt like a twelve-year old kid when they decided to wash my elbows out too. Leg straight out on the bed, both hands up, I looked a right idiot.
They prescribed me some antibiotics to be safe and told me to take it easy and come back in two weeks to have the stitches out. I stopped in at the City Market to pick up my drugs and did a little shop while I waited. I also had a quick call with the people from Elve Speed to turn down their job offer. I was having a busy day!
I was happy to be back “home” but it was a struggle to get parked up on my leveling blocks in the dark with the beginnings of a stiff knee. I was bloody staring having only had a Clif bar to eat since breakfast and one of Tim’s caffeine gels. I heated up dinner, watched a bit of F1, then worked until 9pm. I never had a chance of making that 1pm meeting.
Quiet (and Sore) Day at the Office
I strolled/limped through camp at 8am. Most sites were occupied by people who had been rolling in all night. My knee was very stiff and I’m sure I looked very sore walking around because I was.
A 9am meeting kicked off my workday which was a nice excuse to sit down for a long while. It was a bad idea trying to sit up straight with my left knee at a right angle. Straightening it again was pure agony!
I took Cleo for another campground walk at lunch, then did the same again after finishing work mid-afternoon. I welcomed a lady in a Honda Element who was on for a chat. She had lots of anxiety and PTSD that she told me all about. Everyone has a story and I like hearing them all.
Back at camp, I did some tidying, cleaned Scottie then sat outside until it got dark. Despite the firewood I’d collected from what campers left behind, I wasn’t tempted to light a fire just yet.
Camphost Potluck
My first cloudy day since getting to Moab really made it feel as though the cold weather was setting in. The -1*C start to the morning helped a little too.
I worked in the morning, then drove off for a camphosts potluck at noon. I showed up at the Cloud’s Rest day use area right at 12 o’clock and found nobody. By the time I’d made myself a sandwich a few people had trickled in so I went over to the picnic tables to join them.
The camphosts were a mix of weirdos (I mean that in a nice way) and retired folks and a girl who’d just shown up the day before about my age with a little dog who roamed from position to position, working with the National Park Service, State Parks and BLM. The BLM staff who I’d met a few days earlier asked how my knee was doing and shared their similar stories and showed their Moab scars.
We stood about talking, hearing about the gondola that used to be operated from where we stood and learned that all the “Grand” things, like “Grand Canyon” were so named because the Colorado River used to be called the Grand River. Haha, it’s not because it’s big or impressive, it’s just named after the river that formed it.
After touring the nearby rocks to look at some petroglyphs, everyone went their separate ways. I filled up with water at Lions Head then finished up my work day back at camp. With the wind blowing something fierce outside, it was nice to just shut the doors and hear the noise but not feel the effects.
We remained hunkered down inside after our pre-sunset walk/limp/shuffle and it was a relief to take the bandages off my elbows. Those wounds were looking good. I unwrapped the knee and it looked ok too but I put a fresh bandage on to get me through the night just to be sure.
Friday Feeling
After a good productive day at the office, my knee felt good on my 50 meter walk to the bathroom so I figured I was ready for a proper walk. I had a chat to Deb first and got the details of my tooth surgery nailed down.
Of course on my way to the trailhead I got stuck chatting to some campers on my way out. Wanting to keep things flat, I thought we could walk along the road by Wall Street to the Jaycee campground. It was a beautiful afternoon and with the climbers in such close proximity to the crag, traffic always drove slow.
Along the way, I kept thinking I should probably turn around even though my knee felt good but when I had the need to pee, my only option was to make it all the way because I couldn’t squat down!
We made it all the way alright and only a couple of campers were calling the place home for the night. It was getting dark on the way back and the knee was getting stiff, but I felt like we’d at least accomplished something for the day.
I had a long chat to Erik in site #8 and met his dog Sammy. He told me about having just lost Luna and whether he would grow his dog family again. He lived in Aspen and couldn’t say enough good things about it, making me wanna head straight there.
It was properly dark by the time we got back to Berta and camp was still mostly empty. I made dinner, heating up the van in the process, which made us comfortable for the rest of the cold night.
Jeep Jamboree
The 6km to Jaycee was probably a bit much. I was feeling sore and looking at the knee, I might have busted a stitch. That was the warning that I needed. I was staying at camp for the day. All day.
I started my rounds at 8:30am and didn’t get back until near 10am thanks to another long chat with Eric and another guy in his fifth wheel at site #1. It astounds me how many people are traveling around the country at retirement age seeing National Parks for the first time. I feel weird giving them advice when I’m three decades younger than them.
There were bright orange notices on two people’s campers which suggested non-payment and it made me feel a bit slack but meant I met Karl at Site #12 who didn’t know payment was necessary!
Over (a late) breakfast, I watched as dozens of Jeeps drove past in honor of the weekend’s Jeep Jamboree. An event held a few times throughout the year, it was a reason for Jeep owners and enthusiasts to get together and take over Moab. Take over they did. The stream never stopped.
With the sun out and the day warming up, I started on my to-do list. I adjusted the latch on the drawer under the oven so it stops coming open while driving, then replaced the bolts on Starlink with two different styles of security bolts. I hope that’s enough to stop anyone keen to pinch the $3,000 piece of hardware off the roof.
Next, I’d proved the concept of my work table, now it was time to get me a proper working surface. A 3d printer would have come in really handy about now and while I can get 3D printed parts sent to me, I wanted a solution now. When we’d been walking yesterday, my brain sparked with a way to make a thumb screw out of wood and I was happy with the final product. With a coat of paint, it almost looked like a printed one!
Brenda from next door came over as I was working and noticing my limp, asked about how I’d earned it. Having already met her husband Karl, I’d heard some of the story but she told me how they’d sold everything the owned and moved into the fifth wheel full time. Her Mum was 98 years old so I told her the story of my Gran. She laughed and said her Mum’s Dad had lived to 106 so she was looking at a long life ahead of her.
By 3pm, I’d finished cutting, sanding and oiling my work table and was ready for the next project. The encroaching clouds were threatening rain so I decided to play it safe and call it a day early. I finished out my day by watching Practice for this weekend’s F1 race. Thankfully I got Cleo out for her camp walk before the thunder started and got her scared.
With the colder weather, the campground had undergone a transformation. Where once there had been tents, there were now exclusively vans and fifth wheels.
Rain started to come down as I watched qualifying and while it was only a pitter-patter, it was enough to send Cleo under the blankets. Then she had my screaming throughout qualifying to deal with! I am going to the Mexican GP next year. I just have to be in that crowd screaming Checo’s name with the rest of the mob.
The Moab Workshop
The previous evening, Jen had invited me to spend Thanksgiving with her family in Bend Oregon. I was touched by the invite, that she wanted to share her family time with me, but I replied to say I couldn’t go since I was camphosting in Moab. As soon as I woke up this morning, I realized how stupid that was. I had a van, it had wheels. I was doing this so that I could go wherever I wanted. On top of that, the BLM volunteer coordinator had repeatedly said that I was free to leave any time if something came up. This was that something. I wrote back to Jen and said, “Let me try that again, I’d love to spend Thanksgiving with you. I’ll be there.”
I spent my morning planning out the rest of my year with Bend at the center. I drew out my calendars and put them up along with the ski resort map. I had my Atlas out and figured out the driving time between Moab and Bend and where I would stop along the way. The table thumb wheel was working a treat! I was in my element.
Erik (of Sundog Athletics, Aspen) stopped by to say goodbye and we talked nature, his home time and his Pristine Riders retirement venture. His dog Sammy was happy to take some pats from me through the window as we yarned. He made my day when he blushed a little and apologized for any awkwardness from yesterday. I had no idea what he was referring to so he admitted that he’d seen my naked butt when I was have a shower out the side of the van. Ha ha! I had no idea, I thought I had my door set-up so that onlookers couldn’t see! We laughed about it and he said it was the most beautiful thing he’d seen in nature and that was saying a lot because he was a nature guy. Well, what a sweet thing to say, I was flattered. With that, we said goodbye and I promised to look him up when I got to Aspen. He surprised me by saying that Fall (which is gorgeous because of the fall colors) is one of the quietist times the year to visit!
It was finally warm enough to go outside around 11am and so the workshop opened. The whole day I was working hard with a grand prix to look forward to and with the campground deserted, I didn’t mind using power tools all day. I built three pantry drawers and ate up a decent chunk of plywood that was stashed under my mattress. In contrast to yesterday, I was pushing hard to finish up to get it finished before dark and wow, when camp goes into shade, the warmth of the day completely departs!
Happy with my work, I packed up (takes about twenty minutes) and got myself holed up inside for some racing! With a red flag and two race starts, it was a great one, but I can summarize it in three words, “Oh dear Checo”. I scoped out my spot for next year. Turn 1 is where it’s at!
Dinner Date
Brenda had come by Saturday while I was in the workshop and asked me over to “their place” for dinner and I had graciously accepted.
My day went quickly and started with an impromptu tour and van-building lesson with Ryan. We’d got chatting at his campsite when he waved hello and I noticed a sleeping mat and bag out in the open. It had got down to -5*C overnight and that’s where he’d slept! Turns out he wanted to live the van dream and was desperate to learn anything he could so he came over and we chatted for over an hour, me drawing electrical diagrams and all sorts. I had to kick him out so I could start my work day but he left with a lot of useful notes.
I worked all day and knew I would have to figure something out for my feet soon. They were way too cold and my hot packs weren’t quite cutting it. Yes the diesel heater control panel was inches from my right hand but I was still a bit scared of running it and stuffing it up and flooding the engine or something stupid that would mean getting under the car in the cold to figure it out.
When the sun dipped behind the canyon wall, I packed up and Cleo and I walked up the Poison Spider road a bit just to stand in the sun for five minutes. Now I had a dinner date to get to!
I made sure Cleo was fed and comfortable and set up the bed ramp to make sure she could get into the back and get warm if she needed to.
Brenda and Karl’s fifth wheel was so big it felt like a house and they welcomed me with open arms. They were so easy to talk to and as interested in me as I was in them. We swapped stories of our past lives and our current ones. I learnt that Brenda was adopted out by a birth mother that had seventeen children (that she knew of), Karl was her second husband and they still made each other very happy.
Karl made us spag bog for dinner with Pilsbury biscuits which was just a wonderful form of bread and I’m sure not at all good for you. I ate three of them. We swapped information and while we’d see each other for the next couple of days, I felt like we’d be staying in touch beyond that.
I got back home at 9pm and I was so thrilled to find Cleo had made her way into bed by herself! What a smart cookie, she was perfect comfortable tucked into the blankets. I was beside myself with pride.
Base Jumpers
It was -10*C overnight (this was getting serious) so I had to get over my stupid fear and try the diesel heater. Well, I quickly learnt that 60% battery level isn’t enough to get the glow plug heated up and kick the engine over. Not a big deal, I ran the van engine to get it going after fiddling with the elevation settings. The glow plug turned off and the fuel pump ticked over ok, but it was blowing just barely warm air. After going for a walk, it had warmed up a bit, but not enough to make a real difference. Bugger. I’d spend another day thinking about it.
On the plus side, I was pretty stoked with my new workstation. I was perfectly comfortable in the flipped chair and my beautiful work table.
After work, I walked the campsite then wandered up Poison Spider. I was still limping and couldn’t bend my knee properly but it was getting better every day. Because I didn’t end up talking to anyone on my way to the trail, I got a full ten minutes in the sun. I sat down on a rock with my eyes shut and enjoyed the sun turning the back of my eyelids bright red. My meditative state was broken when I heard idiots throwing rocks off the top of the cliff. It took me a while to spot them thanks to the delay in the sound reaching me but they didn’t let up until they’d thrown at least a dozen.
Maybe that made me more aware of noise as I descended back down to the road. I heard a “whoosh” sound to my right and it stopped me in my tracks. I looked over and just caught the sight of a parachute descending into the canyon. My mouth went wide open as I watched the second base jumper run off the cliff and tear at his parachute. “WHOOSH” as it opened. An excited “Whoop!” from its owner came through the canyon shortly after.
I was stuck to my spot. There was one guy left at the top. Sure enough, the little stick figure ran from the tip of the rock and fell into canyon. He must have been the most experienced of the group because he pulled his chute much later than the others. I stared at him until the walls of the canyon hid him. No fucking way. I found it hard to move after witnessing that.
At camp, the time was right to have a fire after pinching all this firewood. I got it going nicely and Cleo was happy to keep watch from the can. As the sun went down, I tried calling everybody but had no luck until I got to the Gooding kids. When the video call connected, I got the best reaction anyone can hope for. They screamed my name and clambered over each other to be in front of the camera and tell me the latest. Just adorable. August stole my heart when he kept asking to see Berta.
(Bad) Day in Town
It was cold and I was getting pissed off with it. It didn’t matter what I did with my feet, they were just cold. I had a 9am meeting and couldn’t be seen wearing my beanie and down jacket so stripped off for the Zoom and I paid dearly for it. The wonder pax in my lap just couldn’t warm my body. The cost of doing business.
I struggled to concentrate at work knowing I had a lot to get done in the afternoon and it didn’t help that I spent the day pulling teeth with people. It’s unbelievable how annoying people can be sometimes. That meant I wasn’t in the best mood as I drove into town.
I hit Napa Auto Parts first and met success there picking up the parts I ordered and talking with some friendly people. Next was the BLM office for a shower which was nice and hot. I didn’t bother picking up supplies like toilet paper and fee envelopes because so far I hadn’t needed any. By the time I was done with that, the front office was closed so I couldn’t hand in my timesheet. Oh well, I could scan and email it.
Now I was on the hunt for winter boots. I’d thrown mine out at the end of last season since they’d had it and while I really just wanted the same ones again, they were no longer available. Instead of buying online, I thought, I’m traveling so I should support the local business I visit to get my wares. I tried the Thrift store first and that was full of junk and the Outdoor Gear Trader had lots of boots but none to my liking.
I hit the laundromat next and did the $6 maxi load that gave me plenty of room for clothes, sheets and towels. Thanks Deb for the laundry sheets, what a great substitute for liquid and powder. With twenty-six minutes to kill, I took Cleo out for a walk and called Dad. When he answered the poor girl started having diarrhea so poor Dad got a bit of commentary. Not long after she’d finished her liquid poo, a woman raced to a stop in her car just to my side and had her phone out the window pointing at me. She ignored me when I asked if she was alright. A while later, she sped away, slowing enough to yell out the window, “Pick up after your dog!” I’m sure there’s a photo of me on some neighborhood Facebook group labelling me a trasher. Well, that wasn’t a nice thing to experience. No chance to defend myself, no human interaction beyond a phone thrust in my direction instead of me explaining there is no way to pick up a liquid shit.
Dad and I kept talking but I wasn’t really paying attention. I was pissed off and sad for Cleo that she was feeling so sick.
Back at the laundromat, I put everything in the dryer then walked to the next gear store. They had one type of boot there and heaps of sizes, but it was $100 for something I didn’t really want. Bugger it, I went back to the laundromat and picked out a set of boots online that I’d get delivered to the BLM office. I tried.
After picking up and folding at the laundromat, we had one more stop for groceries. I did a big shop this time and it was my first time doing a proper in-person shop since COVID. I actually enjoyed it. It was nice to walk the aisles, see something and think, “I want that!”, like a slice of Tiramisu cake. After going through self check-out, my opinion had changed some but my day was done, I was ready to go back to camp. It was properly dark now and though Cleo was pawing at me, but we made it back ok.
To cap off a bad day, it took me about five goes to line Berta up with the leveling blocks and the one under the front tyre split. But it didn’t break! They will be firewood the next time I move, they’ve had it.
Cleo made some more liquid poo as soon as she got out but she had a good appetite. After I made the bed, I put her in it then packed up the rest of the van.
(Good) Day at Camp
We had a rough night. I’d expected to be up a few times in the night to let Cleo out and we made it to midnight ok, but we were up and out every two hours after that.
Despite that, I felt like I had a good night’s sleep and had a fresh attitude. My mood was lifted. It didn’t even matter that there was a little bit of poo on the fresh white sheets (a baby wipe fixed that). Poor Cleo.
I had an early meeting and Cleo was happy to snooze and recover a bit from yesterday. I was surprised how chipper I felt. I think the past few days I’d been getting too much sleep and now I was back to my magic number somewhere between 7 and 8 where I felt rested, but not too sluggish.
I met Bill and Laurie during my morning rounds. He worked at Tesla in sales and was super interested in volunteering at Pebble Beach. We exchanged numbers and when I went online, I looked up the volunteering website to send to him and discovered I’M FAMOUS! My face is on the front of the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance web page! My day was made!
The next guy at camp, Luke, lived in Denver and was traveling in a pop-up camper he got for $900. His summers were spent building ski-lifts at various resorts across the country and while it sounded whimsical, he said he was sick of traveling everywhere.
I got my work day in and poor Cleo wasn’t happy all day. She was going to the bathroom every couple of hours. I had a very productive day and I was made to feel like I had a proper office when Gary, a vendor at the upcoming Craggin’ Classic festival, popped his head in to make sure he’d secured his spot right.
By mid-afternoon I was down to a long-sleeved shirt so there was still som warmth to be had this year. Dad was up early doing St. Johns so we got to try our chat from yesterday again. I felt much more like myself this time and we laughed the appropriate amount.
When it came to our afternoon walk, I didn’t quite get to chase the sun like yesterday because I got caught talking to people but we were still finding new things. We followed a trail off to the left of the fire road and I thought I my knee should be good enough to do the whole thing before we leave.
I was watching the cliff for more base jumping as we came down but I’m sure that was a once in a lifetime observation. I felt so content just being in the one place. I think this injury is just what I needed to settle me into my new life. I wasn’t trying to go out and do everything, ride every trail, climb every route, I just stayed put and enjoyed my close surroundings.
Back home, I was excited to cook with a full fridge and pantry. Cleo woofed down her dinner and looked longingly at the bed. Up she went, so I had the rest of the evening to myself.
Base Jumping is a Common Thing
There was at least five Starlinks at camp Friday morning. When I logged onto my work computer to connect to mine, they all came up as potential networks! Elon was really making a huge difference in people’s lives.
I had a steady work day and on the way back down from our afternoon walk, I heard the familiar “whoosh” sound. I whipped around quick smart to look across the canyon. I think he’d jumped through an archway! I watched a while for a mate but couldn’t see anyone so I carried on. A few minutes later, “whoosh!” Dammit, I’d missed it! For such a short flight, I imagined they’d hiked a few hours for the privilege.
It made me look at the “regular” spot across the canyon and when I saw a little stick figure moving around up top, my mouth went wide open. No way. I watched the little spec moving around for a good five minutes. The wall was so far away that my eyes struggled to keep sight of such a tiny moving object. When he disappeared beyond the cliff, I knew this was it. He re-appeared running full-tilt away from the rock. I think I said, “What the fuck!” Or “Fuck off!” But I definitely swore. How could I not? “Whoosh!”
Back home, I was excited for yet another F1 weekend. It was perfect really that I had races going on every weekend of my first outing with a busted knee.
Moab Mechanic
I spent my time over breakfast much how I’d spent last Sunday. I mapped out the ski mountains on the Ikon pass and their planned opening dates.
On our early morning walk, I could hear the party over the river. I went up the Jeep road a bit to see the goings on for the Moab trail marathon and the guy on the mic had energy enough to give me a boost. He was relentless all day calling the finishers and keeping the crowd amped.
By 11am it was plenty warm enough to get under the car. I’d noticed a little pool of oil forming under the diff at the back of the car and when I’d removed the fill plug a few days ago, I’d filled it with half a liter of oil, so the leak was quite serious. I’d gotten the parts I needed from Napa and was ready to do the repair.
It was a simple job but I took it slow and felt very methodical, trying to keep things clean and enjoying the steady pace. As people moved all about me going out to their adventures, I was at home smelling like diff oil and I loved it.
I drained the diff oil and was happy to see it looking very clean. I was lucky that the finger-tight drain plug hadn’t loosened itself and fallen off and it’s amazing the leak wasn’t worse. The silicone we’d used instead of a gasket was non-existent!
I made a few gasket and was happy I’d thought to buy an extra bottle of oil because I needed 2.5 bottles. I thoroughly cleaned both surfaces, but a bunch of goo on the gasket, then slapped it all back together. I will fill it with oil tomorrow.
My reward for doing the mechanics was carpentry. I installed my drawers and as always, did a bit of mucking around to get them lined up. I was at a good place to stop just as camp went into shade so after packing up, it was walk time.
Cleo’s bathroom habits were back to normal and my knee was feeling good so we were off for a longer one. It was a great time to walk up the Jeep road because everyone was coming down. I was so proud of Cleo being well-behaved off-leash and she got a lot of praise from Jeepers for it. Every time a car was coming towards us, I just told her to heel and sit by my side which she loyally did, until I told her she could move off again.
The steep rock section that had looked easy for people going up the week before was a different story coming down. We watched a couple cars and I thought it wasn’t my cup of tea, cars are too shiny to be doing that with them.
We took the single track scramble route down and it was a bit of a challenge with me trying not to twist my knee, but Cleo help tight to me as I lowered her down from the rock shelf. I was going pretty slow by the time we got back down.
I saw a couple of runners across the canyon jogging towards the finish line as we descended into camp and I heard the guy on the mic announce that the last shuttle back to town was imminent. They’d had a big day.
I had F1 to complete my night and for something different, Dad and I watched the Sprint race together. It was a fun experience, especially since the Aussie won it!
Moab Carpenter
It was another nice day to be in the canyon. There was noticeably less traffic but the marathon was still in full swing for its Sunday “Run Day” so they guy on the mic was back.
During our rounds, I met a flutist, Molly, who’d played her instrument for encouragement to the runners all day yesterday. She offered me her firewood and suggested that I live in Morrison, Colorado, where she did and we talked about the Red Rocks Amphitheater.
I walked up the Jeep road a little bit to watch the half-marathon kick-off at 8am, then we were back home for breakfast. Once the day warmed up enough, I got out into the “shop”.
Today, I brought to life the vision that Deb and I had for my pantry. First, a door for the piano cupboard, then the pantry cupboard and drawers. It was a lot of precise work but my van kitchen experience made it light work. With limited pretty plywood and no spares, I was determined not to get pissed off by making a stupid mistake.
With all the drawers in and their faces mounted, I had to have working latches before I could drive again but it was the sun’s time in the canyon was over so I figured I could do that tomorrow. We had a short walk up the Jeep track and enjoyed some pretty cloud colors at sunset.
A great F1 race in Brazil closed out the night.
Post-Work Campfire?
I had a productive work day as the campground cleared out. I was getting so used to staying put and didn’t mind the constant movement around me. Cleo and I were getting into a routine though she wasn’t a very good receptionist.
Mid-morning, I met Lucas who was a park ranger that stopped by to say hi. He was getting ready for his two months off in winter because there’s nothing much for him to do in Moab.
After finishing work, my knee was feeling good again so we did the long walk to Jaycee campground. There were a few climbing parties on Wall Street and we stopped to talk to a belayer who was catching someone on the route I’d climbed. The sunset colors over the river were just beautiful so we stopped to take them in for a while.
On the way back, the wind was picking up, but it had a warm tinge to it. It was nearly 20*C!
The perfect weather meant that Molly’s firewood burned tonight. I was happy to finally finish a shit book that I should have put down ages ago. With that done, I spent an hour or two just sitting and looking into the fire, lost in thought. I ate my dinner, the last of my Tiramisu cake and thought, “I went to work today and now I’m sitting by a campfire. Life is good.”
Zero Stitches
On the advice of the nurses I’d seen when getting my stitches, I planned to be at the hospital at 7am to avoid any waiting time. I must have been excited about it because I was wide awake at 5am. I took Cleo for a walk and it was dark except for the shadows cast by the 1/3 moon. She was tugging on the leash big time and just as I laughed at her for chasing shadows, I saw a pair of shining eyes and a bushy tail in the dim light. It was a filthy raccoon. We turned around and went straight back to the van, me looking over my shoulder the whole way to make sure he wasn’t stalking us. Scary!
We were on our way into two at dawn and found that they’d turned the water off at Lions Head Park so Cleo just hopped out for a proper potty break then we drove to hospital. It was dead. I was attended by two nurses and the stitches came right out with barely a tug. The nurse wasn’t surprised by my rate of recovery and was impressed at how things looked.
I picked up a few more groceries then parked out the back of the BLM field office to fill with water. It was a busy time of day with everyone loading their trucks to head out for the day. I did my best to stay out of everyone’s way as I waited for the tanks to fill. I picked up a plethora of Walmart packages, signed a form so I could get my “paycheck” ($25 a day, thanks BLM!), then broke the news to Jeremy that I’d be leaving early. I told him I was sorry to be letting him down but when I said why I was leaving, he was convinced I’d made the right decision.
I was back at camp at 9am and surprisingly managed to level up on the wooden blocks one last time. Everything I’d bought from Walmart worked great except for the winter boots, which were too small and the leveling blocks were great but it was a shame they didn’t quite fit on the side door step.
I worked all day and had a nice meeting with the hosts of a potential house sit in Boston but that’s where the positives stopped. I had my first therapy session and didn’t like it one bit. I really needed to go for a run after it but my knee was nowhere ready for that, or a bike ride.
We settled for a short walk instead then I just sat and watched the sun fade from the canyon a while. I just felt sad and I let myself sink into it for a bit.
When we went for an evening walk, I met Francis in the dark on the way back. He was camped next to me with a huge distinct brown Ford RV. He was another retired-age gentleman exploring his country for the first time in his life. We exchanged numbers so I could tell him about the secret Grand Canyon spot and for the next few weeks, he would keep me updated on where he was and filmed his redneck reactions to different things.
Back at the van, I couldn’t run but I could cook. I listened to “The Glitch” podcast while doing so. I made it to about 8pm before losing it and I called Kev. He calmed me down and I went to sleep feeling ok.
The Canyon is Singing
I was early enough that when Cleo and I took our tour of camp, the sun hadn’t peeked over the far canyon walls yet. I said goodbye to Francis as he drove out and then had a busy day at work.
With daylight savings gone, camp now went into the shade at 3pm and Cleo was onto it. She pawed at me big time as soon as the shade hit and I always relented. Walk time! It was time for us to reach the end of that trail off to the left of the Jeep road. It was a good time to do it because the elevation kept us in the sun for most of the walk which was essentially now that the cold was coming back into the canyon.
We were following the Colorado River walking along a plateau when I heard music. Or was it just the gentle hum of mountain bike brakes across the canyon? No, it’s a saxophone! I went off trail to the edge of the canyon and though I heard it more clearly, I couldn’t see it. The player was likely on my side of the river and his sounds was amplified by the far walls. I stood and listened, inspired that I got to hear music in a place like this.
The hike was nice and gentle so it was great for my knee and at Poison Spider Bench, we were rewarded with a beautiful view out over the river.
Walking back, I could see the mountains on the other side of Moab had received a dusting of snow after being bare yesterday. The cold was settling in!
Back at a deserted, dark camp, it was properly cold. I had another fire and sat by it talking to Dad. We decided it was best for me to sell my unit in Brisbane after I’d sent him my sums and we’d talked about the pros and cons. It felt nice to make a final decision.
Then I got to catch up with Vanessa. Every time we talk, I wish I’d called sooner. There was heaps of news and she made me want to swing by the Bay Area between Thanksgiving and Christmas for a visit so I thought I’d better look at my calendar to see how I could make that happen.
Needing to heat up the van a bit for the night, after I put Cleo to bed I baked muffins in the oven. I was liking our “house” more and more every day.
Turning in my Badge
I thought maybe we’d been the only ones at camp overnight but no, there was a couple of sites occupied in the morning. I was quite enjoying this routing and thought I might miss it when we go. We did our walk before sun-up and I was in the office by the time the sun hit the windscreen. I was grateful for a quieter day at work today after a hard slog yesterday.
Having calmed down a lot, I had a long chat to Kevin over lunch sitting out in my chair in the sun. His first trip in the new car and camper had gone well and I was stoked to hear it.
After lunch, I drove into town for my “check-out”. At the BLM office, I handed in my swag, had one last shower, then chatted with Jeremy for a bit. I thanked him profusely and made sure he understood just how much I’d appreciated the opportunity. He assured me that if I ever needed a place to stay in the area, there would be a campsite with my name on it. Naawwww!
I parked at the shops and took Cleo for a walk around town just for something different. I picked up a few things at the shop then went home for the last time. I nailed my parking, getting Berta right on top of the blocks in one go. Typical that it took me this long to figure it out.
I went back to work for a bit to finish things off, then stayed in for the night. With Cleo tucked into bed, I thought I could get away with leaving the van for a quick bathroom break but I was wrong. As I walked away from the van, I heard her jump off the bed and onto the van floor. It made such a thud that I raced/limped back to the van as fast as I could, fearing I’d see her with two broken legs. Thankfully she was fine but it was a warning for me.
Dino Tracks
I didn’t work too hard today considering yesterday’s big effort in the office and my main achievement wasn’t work related. My house sit in Boston was booked and my surgery in Rhode Island was booked. It was nice to have it all locked in after all the back and forth.
I had another good chat with Kev over lunch, then with Deb. As afternoon hit, it wasn’t Cleo pawing at me for a hike, it was me who wanted to get going. Right as the shade came over Berta, we were gone.
It only took us three weeks of living here, but we found the main attraction of the Poison Spider trailhead in the Dino tracks and petroglyphs impressed into the rocks by the trail.
The dino tracks were impressive, they almost looked too perfect to be real.
My knee was still very stiff going downhill but that meant I had an excuse for dawdling, to extend what would be our last hike.
I gawked at the cars piled up in the carpark and felt privileged to have been able to get to know the area in its two guises: weekday and weekend. I still couldn’t believe just how many people flocked here for the weekend.
I spent the early part of the night burning the rest of my firewood, staying out reading until well after dark. By the time I went to the van, poor Cleo had been shivering on the floor determined to keep an eye on me. She was straight to be after her dinner.
I watched a Netflix show having downloaded a few and I never want to do it again. It will be documentaries only from now on, I felt like I’d wasted my time with the dramatized version of Uber getting it’s start as a company.
When I was cleaning up, I knocked my freshly made granola into the sink full of water right after thinking, “I should be careful not to knock my freshly made granola or it will end up in the sink full of water.” Shit. Well, at least I’d warmed the van up with the oven.
Goodbye Moab
We were up early to another clear sky day. Typical Moab. The campground was full considering it was a Saturday but it wasn’t my duty anymore to do the rounds. We still walked through camp but I didn’t even glance at the tags.
It was bloody freezing so I had hot packs in my pockets during our walk and crouched over my hot breakfast to get some hot steam in my face. I ate while looking at the map and my scenic drives book. I still considered myself on the injured list so looking out the window at a scenic view would be the sum of our activities as we ventured to our next destination.
I packed up camp, cleaned the windscreen and did a walk around Berta. I want to get into the habit every time I plan on doing a big drive and I was happy with everything I saw.
I put what remained of the leveling blocks in the fire ring for someone to burn, took down the camphost sign and said goodbye to the yellow trees and red canyon walls that had been my backyard these past few weeks. We rolled out of camp and said goodbye to Williams Bottom.
Driving slowly past Wall Street, I pulled over suddenly. Someone was flapping around what looked like a tent but it was a parachute. What’s more. He was looking up as if expecting something to come from up there. No fucking way. The cliff looked barely taller than fifty meters, but I must have been wrong because surely you can’t base jump from that height?
A girl barely ran, but walked off the cliff and pulled her chute as soon as her foot left the rock. Her body swung dangerously close to the cliff as her chute inflated and pushed her back where she’d come from.
The next pair jumped together, running full tilt from the cliff. The guy did a double back flip before pulling his chute! Woooooowwwww.
With that as my last memory of Moab, I said goodbye.
16 Oct – 11 Nov, 2023