It had been a warm-ish night. When I was doing a van-tidy this morning, I actually stowed my gas heater away and packed away my down jacket. Maybe a little optimistic, but it helped to lift my spirits against another misty, grey day.

Having no audiobooks or podcasts to listen to, I was content with music as I drove towards Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I did a shop in Walmart on the way, also stopping to get more bike tubes at a sports shop. I was happy to be on quieter highways as I neared the national park, driving through small towns and not being so bothered by trucks. I took the scenic route in and, being a weekend, there were plenty of people about, despite the grey skies. There were a lot of families out picnicking and riding bikes and even more people driving the scenic routes.

I followed the crowds to Cades Cove, disappointed there hadn’t been a park entrance where I could get some information. It wasn’t really worth te seven mile drive but I sussed out the campsite which was $17 a night. There was an info “hut” with maps available so I scored some of those and studied them. It seemed there wasn’t a whole lot to entertain in the park, but I was keen for a trail run, craving exercise after the last few days of sitting still. I figured I’d head to the main park entrance and ask for advice on a good trail there.

As I drove back the way I’d come, down a slight incline, I noticed the engine temperature was quite high. It normally sits around a quarter of the gauge and it was solidly at half and the engine wasn’t working very hard. Concerned, I pulled over and popped the bonnet. I checked the coolant overflow bottle. Empty. I checked the radiator. Also empty. Eek! I got underneath the car and easily found water dripping from one of the lower radiator hoses. I traced the source back to the pump. Bugger. When I topped up the system at the radiator, water started pissing out of the weeper hole of the pump immediately. Bugger.

I considered my options. It was nearly 2pm so I figured my best bet was to get back to the last town I’d driven through, Marysville, where I was sure there’d be an O’Reilly’s Auto Parts store. I put in as much water as I could, then drove on, keeping my speed pretty modest and constantly eyeing the temperature gauge. Shortly after exiting the park, I became sceptical that my temperature gauge was working because the temperature seemed ok and wasn’t moving. I checked by stopping and the temperature started going up straight away. Ok, gauge is working! I filled up with water again for good measure then carried on. I had to make it about 20 miles.

I was happy to see the O’Reilly store and even happier to see that they had a generously sized – and flat – carpark. I had already come to terms with the fact that I would be staying in Marysville at least a few days to wait for a pump to be ordered in. With no optimism, I asked a man behind the desk, “Would you happen to have a water pump for a 1994 Chevy Astro?” He didn’t give anything away as he clicked and typed, then eventually said, “Which would you prefer?” I cut him off, not believing he actually had one. “I’ve got four!” he said. WOW. Even better, when he pushed his monitor towards me, they were only $20! I opted for the lifetime warranty pump for $30, absolutely amazed I wasn’t paying upwards of $70. It pays to have a Chevy in America!

I asked if they would mind me doing the work in the carpark, and he was hesitant, wondering if I knew how involved the work is, but he was happy for me to carry on and that I should ask if I needed anything at all. I also confirmed it was ok for me to “leave my car there” in the event I didn’t get everything done by night time. Also not a problem.

While the coolant was draining, opportunistically, I wandered over to the neighbouring tyre shop to ask if they could have a look at the slow leak in my right rear tyre. They were happy to help, so I returned to the car and swapped Mr. Leaky for Mr. Spare and rolled Mr. Leaky over to the tyre shop. I explained that the last tyre on this rim also had a leak so I was certain there was a problem with the rim and that I would need a tube put in. Within seconds, the tyre man said, “Well, there’s a nail in it.” Pointing out a huge nail protruding from the tread. Well I felt stupid. He took it away and would call me when it’s done. That’s the last time I try to diagnose without having a proper look. Ha ha.

Back to the real problem, I drained, I flushed then for good measure did a chemical clean of the coolant system with a bottle of flush stuff (which smelled and looked like water, could be a scam). The O’Reilly boys were kind enough to let me use their bathroom to fill up my water containers a few times for all the flushing. A garden hose sure would have been handy. While the engine was running for the chemical clean, I walked back to the tyre shop to collect my plugged tyre. No issues there, the guy even showed me the nail that had been the problem. I swapped the wheels back while the coolant system was still cleaning itself. Efficiency!

All the flushing done, I put the radiator bung back in and it was time for the real work to start. I battled with the radiator shroud for ages, then used my feeble female muscles to wrestle the top radiator hose off. Having not broken anything, I moved on to the fan belt. That was easy enough, but I wasn’t looking forward to putting it back on. The fan and clutch came off ok, then I was at the pump. The bolts were caked with black engine shit but thankfully came loose without too much effort. Next came the head torch since the sun was setting. A few taps to the pump with a hammer and it came free. For curiosity’s sake, I removed the back plate from the pump to see if I could see the failure, but all I got access to was the turbine and even though I couldn’t feel any play in the shaft, the bearing or its seals had obviously gone to shit.

I kept working after dark, but decided it would be best to carry on in the morning. I did a clean up, put all the engine bits under the car and plugged the coolant holes to the engine block with some rags. Just before O’Reilly’s closing time at 7pm, I went in to wash my hands and warms. They asked if I was doing ok, they seemed concerned, but I confirmed I was good and would be continuing in the morning. I bid them good night and they did the same to me.

I made myself some chicken pasta which was thoroughly satisfying and settled down for the night. This is probably the most awkward camp I’ve ever had. I’m right under a light on the side of the O’Reilly building and my bathroom spot is a dark corner by the next building. Not ideal I know, but such is van life! I hope the repairs go as well tomorrow as they did today, I am grateful to have sensible weather to be doing this in. It is about 15*C and tomorrow is bound to get up to 20*C without any rain.

I want to give a huge shout out to the crew at O’Reilly’s. Ever since I moved to America, I’ve always gone to them. From my very first experience with them, I’ve always been treated well. They have no prejudice against girls and seem genuinely interested in whatever is going on with your car. In the time I was in the carpark today, I had three separate staff members come and check on me and not because they thought I was incompetent, just to make sure I was going ok and if I needed anything. Absolutely brilliant, I couldn’t ask for more.