The wind in the valley had settled by morning. As usual, when I first opened my eyes I took a minute to remember where I was, trying to visualise camp in my mind. Despite the stillness, it was still a cold morning so I had an omelette for brekkie. I was sad to leave camp. It had been the best of the trip so far. The van climbed between two mountains and over the other side to look into a huge flat valley. As I entered the town of Baker, I saw an antelope make light work of a four-foot high barbed wire fence. He didn’t even need a run up, just jumped straight over it, clearing it by at least a foot for good measure. Astounding.
The visitor’s centre for the Great Basin National Park in Baker was closed for the season, so I drove on into the park. This park I’d decided to visit purely because I noticed a national park in my Atlas. No recommendations from anyone, no expectations. At the Lehman Caves information centre, there was already a guy talking to the ranger about possible adventures for the day. I joined in and listened. The ranger, Rebecca, told us both that the road up to Wheeler summit was closed due to icy conditions, so we’d have to hike to the top to see the Bristlecone trees or the alpine lakes. When I asked if I could ride to the top on my bike, she called the superintendent to check what the policy was. As she did so, I introduced myself to Douglas, the man next to me at the counter. When I extended my hand, he just spread his arms expecting a hug. I was pleasantly surprised and obliged. He had a hippie aura about him and definitely a calm, carefree character.
Rebecca got off the phone and said that I should not ride around the gate, but she mentioned that she wouldn’t hear or say anything…. She told me that there were only two spots left on the 1pm tour of the Lehman caves so I booked in for that at a cost of $10. That meant I had around four hours to explore. Douglas and I both head up the hill around the same time. At the Upper Lehman campground (the trailhead for the hike up the mountain), the gate for the road was not closed. There were a bunch of rangers working in the car park so I asked how much further up I could drive. They said about 4 or 5 miles. I mentioned that I would like to ride up the road and they immediately covered their ears smiling saying they didn’t hear anything. I was getting the vibe that everyone was ok with my riding up the road, even thought the letter of the law specified that I shouldn’t. I left Douglas to it and drove on up the hill.
At the road closed gates, I parked and got my shit together that would allow me to ride and hike for the next four hours. I wore bike shorts under my hiking pants, took my riding jacket and my downie for the ride down which would be cold. With the sun out, I started off in shorts and a t-shirt and was perfectly comfortable. The tarmac was beautiful to ride on. The road was at about 8% grade, so not too steep, but it was sustained. The ride to the top was around 11km and it took me about an hour. They were right to have closed the road, there were significant patches of snow and ice in the curves of the road that didn’t get any sun. I climbed to 10,000 feet.
At the top, I found the trailhead to the Bristlecone Pine grove and stashed my bike behind some trees. Judging from the hiker’s register, I was the first person up here in two days, so the stashing probably wasn’t too necessary. The trails through the forest were gorgeous, but treacherously slippery. I hadn’t thought to bring my Yaktraks, but would have to start thinking about keeping them with me soon.
There was snow and ice on a lot of the trail, but not enough to give me any trouble following the right path. I had views of Wheeler Summit whenever I wasn’t buried in pine forest and when I got to the Bristlecone grove, it took my breath away. There were signs telling how old certain trees were, some dead, some still growing, even if it was just from a single branch. Some of these beautiful, twisted and coloured growths were over 3,000 years old. I touched my palm to many of them, feeling special to be able to connect with something so ancient. They almost seemed wise.
I turned around here and detoured via Teresa Lake on my way back. While the water level was low, I smiled and giggled to myself as I tested the strength of the thin ice that covered the lake. He he he he he, it was fun to be a child again, but I made sure not to fall in. Wet socks would have ruined my day.
On my way back down, I saw Douglas at the turn off to the Bristlecones. He had rocketed up the mountain. He seemed zen. At home in the wilderness. We talked a bit, then I had to get going, so another hug exchange, then I was off. I was back at the bike before 12, so I had an hour to get back down to the caves. It was a short climb out, then I enjoyed the descent. Down jacket on, I glided over the tarmac, a lot of the time stretching my arms out beside me like wings, trying to cause my body to float.
I took it very slow and steady over the snowy patches, fearing the embarrassment and guilt that would come with an accident where I wasn’t supposed to be. When I got back to the car, I was dancing around to my music, so pumped to have had such a great morning. Five hours ago, I’d driven in to this park expecting nothing and I’d got this!
I was back at the visitor’s center in time to make and eat a quick lunch, then I joined the other 21 people lined up for the tour. Rebecca would be our guide. The group consisted mostly of a group of art college students, there to get inspiration I suppose. There was one girl in that group that was dressed in some sort of silk dress with a veil and another that carried around a crumple of aluminium foil so she could take photos of it in various environments. Hmmm… I didn’t say anything about being an engineer.
Rebecca spent a few minutes outside of the cave entrance explaining a few things about how the cave was discovered in the late 1800s and that we should not touch a single thing once we’d entered the underground world. When she asked, I volunteered to be the sweeper, a person to always remain at the back of the group to make sure we didn’t leave anyone behind. It meant I got to have my own torch (known as “flashlight” in America) just like the big ones that cops have. Inside the cave, we entered through an airlock so as not to disturb the airflow and the tour begun. Rebecca explained different aspects of the cave’s natural history, but also the human history of how it was discovered and how it was now protected by the park service. She did a great job, engaging all of us.
In each of the major rooms of the cave she would stop and point out different formations and cave elements. We got to a room with graffiti on the roof, not from spray cans, but from the early visitors who used candles for light and also for burning their initials into the roof of the cave. Here, we actually had a small debate about whether these signs should remain or be protected. The park service had tried to wash the markings away, even paint over them, but are now not allowed to since a law was passed that any human interaction older than 50 years must be protected because it is part of America’s heritage. A fair enough rule in this circumstance.
Each room of the cave was more fascinating than the next, with different formations to be seen everywhere. Towards the end of the tour, I stood next to the lecturer of the college group, fixated on a freshly dripping stalactite that had grown maybe an inch (this takes around 90 years). We stood watching until we saw a single water drop fall. How amazing to think how slow the growth process is.
Over an hour and a half later, we exited through another air lock back into the daylight. I chatted with Rebecca for a while. Turns out she had been a ranger in Alaska and worked in Glacier Bay as one of the naturalists that went aboard cruise ships, just like I had experienced earlier this year. I thanked her profusely for her earlier advice and for the wonderful tour.
While on the tour, a girl also travelling on her own asked me about my bike because she was considering buying. We chatted throughout the rest of the tour while Rebecca wasn’t talking and continued talking outside the visitor’s centre. She wsa a travelling nurse, taking three-month contracts at different places all over America, usually working four days on, three days off, so she would always get out and explore the area she was in. She was new to camping solo, so we had plenty in common. We exchanged info since we were both heading back to Salt Lake City, both using a lack of planning to get us there.
On the drive out of the park, I was feeling in need of a shower and the sun was setting quickly behind Wheeler mountain, so I pulled off onto a dirt road, far enough from the highway that I didn’t have to both with the tarp. I didn’t think so anyway! As I was drying myself off, it seems everyone was coming to where I was. A Jeep drove by on a nearby road, then the locals that much have lived on the farm I could see about a mile away drove straight past me! Right beside the van! Luckily I’d seen them coming so wrapped myself in a towel, but I laughed as they drove past. I’m such an idiot. Clean and refreshed, I was now in the shade of the mountain so my timing had been perfect. As I drove back out onto the main road, I saw Douglas driving along! I gave him a huge wave which he returned, then I pulled out behind him. At the east/west junction, he pulled over and I stopped to have one last chat. He had made it all the way to the glacier in the valley and spent his time in the Great Basin meditating, taking in the nature. I explained how I was heading east towards Salt Lake City, hopeful to find a pub somewhere to take in the atmosphere of the US presidential election which was happening today. He was going the opposite direction. We wished each other safe travels and I drove off. Just as I turned onto the highway, he tooted his horn, jumped out of his car and came running over. He said that if I was driving to Delta tonight, a town almost 100 miles away, he would be happy to follow and join me for a beer. I honestly didn’t think I’d end up getting that far, not wanting to make camp in the dark and I didn’t want him to drive in the opposite direction to his goal, so we agreed to go our separate ways. As I drove off, I thought maybe I should have obliged him, he had obviously wanted to hang out a bit more, and I would have enjoyed learning more about him. Things happen for a reason though, decision was made in the spur of the moment.
Before long, I was in Utah. After an obligatory “Welcome to Utah” sign photo, I put my audiobook on and enjoyed the change in scenery as the sun set behind me. I drove through a bit of a canyon and saw a brilliant camp, but was in two minds about actually getting to Delta. I did really want to be amongst the election atmosphere. In hindsight I should have stopped there (refer to the rule I mentioned yesterday!). I carried on. Once it got dark I really didn’t want to keep going, but when I saw twinkling lights in the distance, I figured I’d come this far, I should carry on. I made it to Delta, excited to find a lively pub. Unfortunately there wasn’t anything on offer, so I settled for a burger joint that had milkshakes, which was what I was hankering for. No TV showing the election, no buzz, just the usual American flag on the wall. I had a Delta Burger with chips and a ‘Smores milkshake. All were devine. I settled for going online to determine the election progress and was startled to find the two candidates running very closely. I also discovered that I was way too early. Only a fraction of the states had been decided, the rest would be counted overnight and into tomorrow, so really, there was no election atmosphere to be had. At least not yet.
I caught up on social media, then had a facetime session with Derek, Kylie and Emma. Emma showed me all of the presents she had got for her recent birthday and I updated the adults on my travels.
By the time I left Delta, it was well past camp time, it would be my latest camp yet. My standards were pretty low, so I’m just outside an airport fence only ten meters away from the highway. The moon is so bright I don’t need lights to move around outside but it is dark enough for me not to be noticed from the main road. I’ll be up early in the morning to find a breakfast spot elsewhere. I don’t want to be so exposed in the daylight, especially when there isn’t any secluded place to go to the bathroom!