I woke up at first light, which is not too early, just after 6am. I lay there for a bit, then decided that this was a good opportunity to see a good sunrise, so I got dressed, hit the bathroom, then head over to one of the cliffs behind the campground. I’d seen people scrambling up it yesterday so knew there was a walkable route to the top. Sure enough, it wasn’t too hard to find and even in my very inappropriate footwear, I made it to the top just as the yellow glow in the east turned the western skies blue and purple. It was windy atop the boulders and I was astounded to find I had reception up there when my phone went Ding! Ding! Ding! At the summit. I sat and enjoyed the view off to the west as the sky changed colour and the rocks were being painted by the sun. After about an hour, I still couldn’t see the sun behind the eastern peaks, but I felt like I’d seen the best of it.

Back at camp, I got dressed properly and had a makeshift shower, then got packed for a day of climbing, which included all my gear and lunch. As I was eating the hot oats I’d made for breakfast and perusing the atlas, Shannon and Kathi appeared from their van. Sophia and Clements from next door also came over to say hi and have a closer look at my van. They were heading off that morning on their way to Phoenix. Shannon gave me some advice about places to travel over breakfast and said they were happy to have me along climbing for the day. We’d be going to Hemingway area. While I was off at the bathroom, a guy in a very run-down van (the Scooby-Doo van) was driving through the campground looking for a spot and Shannon told him that our neighbours were leaving, so he opportunely took the site. He was a climbing bum travelling on his own so was likely to join our party for the day, which meant we’d have even numbers. But he hadn’t even had breakfast yet! We told him where we’d be then Shannon, Kathi and I went off in their van to our rock for the day. It was very obvious to me that Shannon and Kathi knew this place like the backs of their hands, so I felt very privileged to be climbing with them.

It was nice to be in the sun. Even though it was windy, the sun was still warm enough to get us down to t-shirts at the base of the cliffs. We spent the morning at Dairy Queen Left Side where I took first lead on “Leap Year Flake” (a 2-star 5.7). This was my first trad lead in years (apart from a few gear placements in Yosemite) and would be my first trad anchor in the same amount of time. It was a beautiful climb on very grippy rock that followed a crack all the way to a ledge underneath some huge boulders. At the top of the climb, the route followed a diagonal flake that made for a great end. I was very proud of my anchor, not getting frazzled the way I sometimes do, but taking my time to find good gear placements and rig up a cordelette and some slings as an anchor. Before long, I was comfortable and bringing Kathi up the wall. When she got up to me she said she was happy with my gear, she’d needed the nut tool to remove every nut I’d placed and none of my cams had walked. Not bad!

After we’d all had a run up that climb, I was thoroughly cold from sitting in the wind and shade with only my t-shirt so was grateful to get back onto the ground. Shannon then devised that we could swing the rope over to the left and do “Leap Erickson”, a 5.10b, on top rope. Unless I wanted to lead it? It was bolted, but very slabby so I opted for top rope. Once I was on it, I was glad that I did, it was pretty much textbook slab, climbing Mon friction and nothing much else. My feet were sore the rest of the day from the trauma of that climb. Still, I was happy to do it clean, I was sure my feet would slip at least once!

By the time I was down, Kathi was ready to lead, so she got on “Snake Oil”, a 5.7 next door to the slab on another nice crack/broken rock feature. Shannon followed her up, then draped the tope over “Norm”, a bolted 5.10a route. As they were climbing, I was sitting in the sun to soak up warmth and Michael appeared through the bushes, the guy we’d met in the morning that took the neighbouring campsite. It was nearly 12:30, but he’d joined us! He was a true climbing bum. About my age, he’d been travelling in his van for nearly a year after leaving a 5½ year stint in the Navy and climbing most of the time. Unfortunately, most of the wall was in the shade by now, so we were all feeling a bit cold, but still had a few more climbs to do in the area.

Michael was keen to lead “Leap Year Flake” since this would be his first time climbing in nearly two months so he wasn’t sure of his ability. It was definitely good enough to navigate this route, he did it easily. I followed him up, cleaning his gear out of the wall and I took the opportunity to take a photo of my trad anchor that was getting a lot of traffic!

We lowered down, then it was my lead again as Kathi and Shannon continued working on “Norm”. Michael and I scoped out a 5.9 grade climb to the right of where we’d been called “Adam’s Family”. It looked a little intimidating as a lead, but I jumped on it. There was a bolt at the bottom where it was quite slabby, then gear all the way up a narrow crack. Around the halfway mark I hit the crux and had a minor panic where I had to place some gear while trying not to burn out my muscles. Fortunately it was a good piece and I could sit for a bit and get my head back on. It didn’t help that we couldn’t see the anchors, so didn’t know the exact direction of the climb. A few more pieces along, I figured I only had four more quickdraws left and the anchors were still 25 feet away from what Shannon was calling out to me. I would have to be scarce with my gear. At the top of the crack, I was happy to see a set of anchors that were hidden to Shannon but a lot closer than 25 feet away. Problem was, it was all sloppy slab up to them, with no protection. Oh well, what can you do? Upwards I went. As soon as I stepped higher, I saw there was another crack to my right which made the climb to the end very easy. The crux move had definitely been down lower. I anchored into the bolts and top-belayed Michael, who thoroughly enjoyed the moves of the climb while I enjoyed the view to the sound of Moby, that was being played by another group of climbers somewhere along the wall.

Again cold, as soon as Michael got up to me, he rapelled off, then I followed, happy to be on the ground and taking my climbing shoes off. There was no more sun to find so we were all looking to move to another area with some afternoon sun. Shannon had climbed “Leap Erickson” and cleaned it, so that only left “Norm” to be climbed and cleaned. It was another slab climb like Erickson, so I was happy to leave it be, but Michael was happy to clean it and bring the gear down. He made easy work of it so it didn’t take him long. Within ten minutes of him reaching the ground, we were walking back to the cars.

We drove a short way West until we came to a turn-out and parked. We’d chosen this area because it was known to provide cell phone reception and sure enough, Ding! Ding! Ding! Went everybody’s phones as soon as we got near. Kathi checked in to real life while Shannon, Michael and I talked vans while Michael ate a very late lunch and smoked a joint.

Turns out our wall wasn’t in the sun, but we went for it anyway, we would climb to brave the cold of the shade. We were at “Mel’s Diner” and setting up on “Mel’s Left Crack” and “Mel’s Right Crack”, a 5.10d and 5.10a respectively. After umming and arring for a while, Michael decided he would try to lead the 5.10a crack, so Shannon and I only set up the left crack on top rope after we’d walked to the top of the boulder. The climbs were so short we used only one rope between them. Shannon and Kathi got onto the left crack as Michael started his attempt of the 5.10a. It is a climb that demands smooth sequences, good body position and doubtless trust of your feet. Michael struggled a little with gear placement taking up bomber hand holds, but eventually he figured it out. I swapped out as a belayer with Shannon so I could climb the left crack, which was definitely fun, but challenging. It took every inch of my body to complete. By the time I was at the crux of my climb, Michael had overcome his and was well on his way to the peak of the climb.

We each did one run up each route, then we were well and truly ready to get back to camp. Kathi had already retreated to the warmth of the car since there was no more sun closeby to be had.

Back at the vans, Kathi had hot chocolate waiting for us, which was devine. All I wanted to do was soak my fingers in warm water. Michael head off into Yucca Valley to find reception so he could get in touch with the world, while me, Kathi and Shannon went back to camp.

The wind had died down so it was warmer tonight, but still needed three layers to keep warm. I washed my hands and face in warm water, changed into my clothes that already smelt like campfire from the night before and I felt a million bucks. We all started dinner as the sun was going down. I made chicken pasta again, but this time I used a lot more ingredients, knowing I had room for leftovers. I probably ate enough for two people I was so hungry. I ate dinner over at the Sprinter van while Kathi and Shannon enjoyed left overs heated up in their microwave. Shannon even got out their toaster oven to make Texas toast, which is frozen bread with garlic and cheese on top. And it didn’t stop there, they had store-bought cookie dough so he was making choc-chip cookies for dinner.

With the dishes done, we all took our places by the fire, which was much better tonight due to the lack of wind. About an hour later we heard Michael roll back into camp (the V8 of his Scooby-Doo van is not in the best shape and is missing a catalytic converter). He came over and joined us by the fire. We talked climbing, injuries, the Southern Cross and all sorts until the fire dwindled to coals and fatigue hit us.

It would be another cozy night in the van.